My Favorite Trip Treat (which I ate in 3 different countries)

The Story of Eastern Europe’s Chimney Cake (Kürtőskalács)

The beloved chimney cake—with its golden-brown, spiraled crust and irresistible aroma—is one of Eastern Europe’s most iconic street treats. Known by different names across the region, it’s a sweet, smoky, centuries-old pastry with a festive past and a global future.

1. Origins in Transylvania (Hungarian: Kürtőskalács)

The chimney cake most commonly traces its origins to the Székely (Hungarian ethnic) communities of Transylvania, a region in modern-day Romania with deep historical ties to Hungary. Its name in Hungarian, “kürtőskalács,” comes from:

• kürtő = “chimney” or “stovepipe”

• kalács = a type of sweet bread or cake

It earned the nickname “chimney cake” from its hollow, cylindrical shape and the way steam rises from the middle when it’s freshly baked.

The earliest known recipe dates back to 1784, found in a handwritten cookbook by a Hungarian noblewoman from Transylvania. Originally a holiday or wedding dessert baked over open fires, it was made with love, time, and patience.

2. How It’s Made

The dough—lightly sweet, yeasted, and often flavored with vanilla or lemon zest—is:

• Rolled out into thin ropes,

• Spiraled around a wooden spit or roller,

• Brushed with butter,

• Rolled in sugar (which caramelizes during baking),

• Slowly baked over an open flame or in special rotisserie ovens.

Once baked, it may be coated in toppings such as:

• Cinnamon

• Chopped nuts

• Coconut

• Cocoa

• Sprinkles or even Nutella

The result? A crispy outside, soft inside, and a warm, sugary crunch.

3. Regional Names and Variations

• Hungary: Kürtőskalács – considered a national treasure; celebrated at festivals and markets.

• Romania: Cozonac Secuiesc – especially in Transylvania.

• Slovakia: Trdelník – popular in tourist towns like Bratislava.

• Czech Republic: Trdelník – a beloved Prague street food, though more recent and often filled with ice cream or whipped cream (a tourist-friendly twist).

• Germany & Austria: Baumstriezel – similar pastries appear at Christmas markets.

Though each region claims some stake, the chimney cake’s deepest cultural roots are Hungarian-Transylvanian.

4. Modern Revival

In recent decades, chimney cake has undergone a renaissance. It has:

• Become a street food staple across Eastern Europe,

• Been reimagined as ice cream cones, filled desserts, and even savory snacks,

• Gone international, with chimney cake shops popping up in cities like London, New York, and Tokyo.

Despite its trendy adaptations, the core tradition remains: a handmade spiral of sweet dough, baked and shared, often in the open air.

5. Cultural Significance

The chimney cake evokes festivity, warmth, and togetherness. Whether eaten on a snowy night at a Christmas market or pulled apart by hand during a summer fair, it connects generations through its scent, flavor, and form.

As one Hungarian proverb puts it:

“A kürtőskalács nem siet – csak forrón jó.”

(The chimney cake doesn’t rush – it’s only good when it’s hot.)