Planning, Packing, and a Plane Ride Across the Atlantic from DC to Warsaw

“Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.” 

 Mark Twain – from The Innocents Abroad

As a child, I developed a love of travel and being on the road, seeking new adventures, seeing new sights, meeting new people, encountering new ways of living, and sampling new foods, new culture, and new ideas

Today, as a 73-year-old, I find my travel passion is just as great. My traveling partner Judy, who has also been my wife for 52 years, and I have been extremely fortunate. We have been on safari with lions in Kenya and spent 2 weeks in Fidel Castro's Cuba. We have roamed extensively in Asia. We have sailed through the Panama Canal, perused art masterpieces in Italy and Russia, taken a fog-shrouded Jack the Ripper night tour in London, hiked the majestic mountain trails of Machu Picchu, dove into the clear Pacific waters off Tahiti, and seen a stunning sunrise in Stockholm with Swedish friends.

But obviously, even after so many years, there were still many places yet to visit. And one of those was Eastern Europe. We had long talked about taking a river cruise in that part of the world. But, in 2024, Judy discovered a 16-day bus trip sponsored by the Smithsonian and we decided to sign up for that excursion.

And so, this blog that you are now reading (which is the 1st one I have ever composed using AI extensively) is my attempt to capture in words and pictures some of the highlights we found on our Smithsonian journey to the Historic Cities of Central Europe. 

I hope you enjoy it. 

We Get Introduced to One Another and Begin Forming a Traveling Family

Until today, our 15 traveling partners had simply been names on a list.

There was Heather Evans and Martin Marx from California. Cindy Price-Habberley and  Mark Habberly, also from California.

Tim and Janet Hargrove were from Indiana, while Dennis and Deborah Murphy resided in Florida.

Isaac Sapoznikow and Ivette Lenard called New York home. Dr. Linda Winkler lived in Pennsylvania and Donald Ritter lived in Michigan.

One couple, Tom and Nina McVeigh lived in Virginia, less than half-an-hour drive from our apartment in Arlington, but we had never met until all 4 of us had been picked up together at the Warsaw Airport and dropped off at our Warsaw home, the Pelonia Palace Hotel.

Eventually, that evening at a welcome dinner, we would also meet our tour director who would be with us for our entire 16-day bus excursion through Poland, Hungary, Austria, and the Czech Republic. 

Our Odysseys Unlimited director, who we quickly began calling with much fondness "Our Mother Hen," was Dalija Volkskiene. Dalija would be responsible for blending education, logistics, and hospitality to make our trip smooth and successful. And, indeed, in the days to follow we would find Dalija being our ...

1. Cultural Interpreter

Who provided detailed historical, political, and cultural context at each destination explaining:

• Key historical events (e.g., WWII, Cold War, Communist regimes)

• National customs, languages, and lifestyles

• Local legends and culture

2. Logistics Coordinator

Who handled day-to-day tour management:

• Ensure timely departures and arrivals

• Coordinate hotel check-ins and local excursions

• Managing entry tickets, reservations, and passports 

3. Liaison and Troubleshooter

Who acted as a bridge between travelers and local service providers:

• Translating when necessary

• Handling health concerns or unexpected events 

• Offering recommendations for meals, free time, and shopping

4. Storyteller and Educator

Whose commentary turned sights into stories:

• Bringing ruins, synagogues, castles, and cathedrals to life

• Sharing anecdotes and personal experiences

• Highlighting how the past connects to present-day Eastern Europe

5. Host and Companion

Who fostered a welcoming atmosphere:

• Encouraging group bonding

• Providing support and humor

• Answering our many questions with insight and patience

In essence, as our Odyssey guide , Dalija would prove to be the glue that held our journey together, enriching it with meaning, warmth, and seamless execution.

____________________

We also met our Smithsonian historical expert, Laurie Koloski who would deliver evening lectures, take several of us on tours not on the itinerary, suggest the best place to eat and shop and, along with Dalija, answer questions ranging from where did Hitler hang out to where is the nearest bathroom. 

According to bio information provided by the Smithsonian, Laurie traveled to Poland for the first time in 1981, knowing little about the country and maybe a dozen words of the language. It didn’t take her long to realize what a special place it was, and she lived there for four years before returning to the US to complete her undergraduate studies. 

She has been traveling to and studying central and eastern Europe ever since.

Recently retired from William & Mary’s Department of History, Lauire has been a historical guide for the Smithsonian since 2016. While her training and research focused on social and cultural history in communist-era Poland, her teaching interests also encompassed modern European and global history, communism and socialism, historical interpretation, and material culture. 

Her favorite course at W&M was “Stuff: Objects and Their (Hi)Stories,” in which she worked with first-year students to read material objects and critically evaluate the past and present-day stories of their favorite (and sometimes least favorite) things.

Laurie used case studies to highlight key historical themes and lessons, often by focusing on the ways that things such as monuments, maps, food, buildings, and even mustaches can help us understand broad developments such as identity, imperial power, and ideology. 

Of course, time would tell, but it seemed quickly apparent that we had an exceptionally nice group off travelers and we would be in good hands with Dalija and Laurie.

Don't Forget Your Whispers

 The term “whisper system” refers to portable wireless audio devices that facilitate clear communication between tour guides and their groups, especially in environments where speaking loudly is impractical or prohibited. These systems have become integral to modern tourism, particularly in Europe, enhancing the experience for both guides and participants. 

Origins and Development

The concept of audio assistance in tours dates back to the mid-20th century. In 1954, the American Museum of Natural History introduced the Guide-A-Phone system, one of the earliest audio guides for museum visitors. By 1957, Acoustiguide launched a mobile interpretation guide narrated by Eleanor Roosevelt for Franklin D. Roosevelt’s Hyde Park . 

The specific application of wireless audio systems for group tours, known as “whisper systems,” emerged in the late 1990s. In 1999, the company Whisper developed the first radio-guide system tailored for tourism, aiming to simplify communication between guides and tourist groups .  

Functionality and Benefits

Whisper systems typically consist of a transmitter microphone used by the guide and wireless receivers with earpieces for participants. This setup allows guides to speak at a normal volume, ensuring that all group members can hear clearly without the need to gather closely or raise their voices. Such systems are particularly beneficial in settings like museums, historical sites, or bustling city streets, where ambient noise or regulations may hinder traditional communication methods. 

Evolution and Modern Use

Over time, whisper systems have evolved to incorporate advanced features, including noise-canceling technology, extended battery life, and multi-channel capabilities for multilingual tours. Companies like Retekess have developed models such as the T130P and T131P, which offer crystal-clear audio quality and user-friendly interfaces .  

Today, whisper systems are widely used across Europe and beyond, not only in tourism but also in sectors like education, corporate training, and religious services, wherever clear and discreet communication is essential.

In summary, whisper systems have transformed the landscape of guided tours by enhancing communication, preserving the ambiance of visited sites, and improving the overall experience for participants. 

Warsaw - The Phoenix City

Founding & Early History

1. Legend of the Mermaid

Warsaw’s symbol is the mermaid (syrenka), said to have come from the Baltic Sea to protect the city. Her image appears on city crests, statues, and even police badges.

2. Not Always the Capital

Warsaw became Poland’s capital in 1596, when King Sigismund III moved the royal court from Kraków—making Warsaw the political heart of the country ever since.

3. Named After a Fisherman

According to legend, the city was named after Wars and Sawa, a fisherman and a mermaid. The tale varies, but it reflects the city’s river-based roots.

4. Royal Castle Built in the 16th Century

The Royal Castle in Warsaw was once the seat of kings and is now a striking symbol of Polish history—painstakingly rebuilt after WWII.

5. Historic Old Town Rebuilt from Rubble

Nearly 85% of Warsaw was destroyed during WWII, but its Old Town was meticulously reconstructed using paintings and photographs—earning it UNESCO recognition.

Cultural & Educational Milestones

6. Birthplace of Chopin

The composer Frédéric Chopin was born near Warsaw in 1810 and spent his early years in the city. His heart, literally, is preserved in a pillar of the Holy Cross Church.

7. Home to Marie Curie

Marie Skłodowska-Curie, the Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, was born in Warsaw in 1867. Her birthplace is now a museum.

8. One of the Oldest Universities in Poland

University of Warsaw, founded in 1816, is Poland’s largest university and a hub of intellectual and political life.

9. Home of the Warsaw Uprising Museum

The museum honors the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, when the Polish resistance bravely fought Nazi occupation for 63 days, despite being outgunned.

10. Poland’s Cultural Powerhouse

Warsaw is home to dozens of theaters, philharmonics, galleries, and the National Museum, making it the cultural epicenter of Poland.

War, Destruction & Resistance

11. The Ghetto Uprising Was a Global Symbol of Resistance

In 1943, Jews in the Warsaw Ghetto rose up against the Nazis in one of WWII’s most heroic acts of defiance.

12. Leveled by the Nazis After the 1944 Uprising

After the failed Warsaw Uprising, Hitler ordered the city destroyed. Entire districts were systematically reduced to rubble.

13. Soviet-Controlled Rebuilding Post-WWII

Postwar Warsaw was rebuilt under Stalinist architecture, including the imposing Palace of Culture and Science, a “gift” from the Soviet Union.

14. Secret Schools During Occupation

During WWII, Warsaw’s citizens organized underground universities and schools to resist cultural annihilation by the Nazis.

15. City of Resistance and Rebirth

Warsaw’s motto could be “Phoenix City”—it rose from almost total destruction to become a thriving European capital.

Modern Innovation & Culture

16. Palace of Culture and Science: Love It or Hate It

At 237 meters tall, it’s Poland’s tallest building and a controversial Stalinist landmark—but now houses theaters, cinemas, museums, and even a university.

17. A Tech and Startup Hub

Today, Warsaw is known for its booming tech sector, hosting startups and major international IT companies in a rapidly modernizing economy.

18. One of Europe’s Greenest Cities

With over 90 parks, including massive Łazienki Park and Saxon Garden, Warsaw balances modernity with green space.

19. Vibrant Vistula Riverfront

The banks of the Vistula River have become a lively area for nightlife, culture, cycling, and open-air concerts—reviving the city’s relationship with its river.

20. A Global City with Local Soul

Despite its tragic past, Warsaw is today a cosmopolitan metropolis, blending glass skyscrapers with historic facades, local traditions with global trends, and remembrance with resilience.

Krakow - The City of Kings and Dragons

 Founding & Medieval Glory

1. Founded by a Dragon-Slayer (Legend Says)

According to legend, Kraków was founded by Prince Krakus, who defeated the Wawel Dragon and built his city on the dragon’s cave.

2. One of the Oldest Cities in Poland

Kraków has been inhabited since the Stone Age and was officially established as a city in the 7th century, making it one of Poland’s most historic places.

3. Poland’s Royal Capital for Over 500 Years

From 1038 until 1596, Kraków served as the royal capital of Poland, even though the capital later moved to Warsaw.

4. Wawel Castle Is the Heart of Polish Kingship

The Wawel Royal Castle has been home to Polish monarchs since the 11th century and is still a symbol of national identity.

5. Jagiellonian University is One of Europe’s Oldest

Founded in 1364 by King Casimir III the Great, it is the second-oldest university in Central Europe, after Charles University in Prague.

Cultural & Religious Significance

6. Kraków’s Old Town Is a UNESCO Site

Its medieval layout, preserved fortifications, and Renaissance architecture earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 1978—the first site ever inscribed.

7. St. Mary’s Basilica Has a Famous Trumpet Call

Every hour, a trumpeter plays the Hejnał mariacki from the basilica tower—but stops abruptly, commemorating a trumpeter shot by invaders in the 13th century.

8. Home of Pope John Paul II

Born Karol Wojtyła in nearby Wadowice, Pope John Paul II studied, taught, and served as archbishop in Kraków before becoming pontiff in 1978.

9. Jewish Quarter Has a Deep Heritage

Kazimierz, Kraków’s Jewish district, was once a thriving center of Jewish life and now balances memory with modern culture and revival.

10. Site of Oskar Schindler’s Factory

The original enamelware factory of Oskar Schindler, who saved over 1,000 Jews during the Holocaust, is now a powerful museum of WWII Kraków.

Wars, Resistance, and Resilience

11. Spared from WWII Destruction

Unlike many Polish cities, Kraków’s historic core survived WWII, allowing its medieval and Renaissance architecture to remain largely intact.

12. Headquarters of Nazi Occupation in Poland

Kraków was made the capital of the Nazi “General Government,” and its Wawel Castle was used by Governor Hans Frank—a dark chapter in its history.

13. Resistance Movement Was Strong in Kraków

Kraków was a hub for the Polish resistance, including underground press, sabotage, and Jewish rescue operations during the war.

14. Plaszów Concentration Camp Was Just Outside the City

This infamous Nazi camp, depicted in Schindler’s List, was located on Kraków’s outskirts and is now a memorial site.

15. Communist-Era Steelworks Created a ‘New City’

The socialist city of Nowa Huta was built near Kraków to house steelworkers—but became a hotbed of anti-communist resistance in the 1980s.

Modern Life, Innovation & Culture

16. Kraków is a European Capital of Culture

In 2000, Kraków was named European Capital of Culture, spotlighting its deep contributions to literature, music, film, and art.

17. Host of World Youth Day 2016

Pope Francis visited Kraków for World Youth Day, bringing over 2 million pilgrims to the city.

18. City of Festivals

Kraków hosts over 100 festivals per year, including Jewish Culture Festival, Film Music Festival, and Unsound, a major electronic music event.

19. Named a UNESCO City of Literature

In 2013, Kraków became the first Slavic city to join UNESCO’s Creative Cities Network as a City of Literature, honoring its literary legacy.

20. Kraków Has a Vibrant Student and Tech Scene

Home to more than 200,000 students, Kraków is also a growing tech and startup hub, blending its rich past with digital innovation.